Gel Shellac: Shiny, Strong… but Sustainable?

Gel manicures—often called “gel shellac”—have become a beauty staple. They’re long-lasting, chip-resistant, and deliver a salon-fresh shine that regular polish just can’t match. But what exactly is gel shellac, how is it made, and is it as eco-friendly as we’d like to believe? I had to do some research.

What Is Gel Shellac?

When people say “shellac” at the salon, they usually mean a UV- or LED-cured gel polish system—most famously CND™ SHELLAC™. Despite the name, these products do not contain the insect-derived resin “shellac” that’s used in wood finishes or food coatings.

Instead, gel shellac is a synthetic formula made up of:

• (Meth)acrylate monomers and oligomers – the building blocks that harden into a strong plastic layer.
• Photoinitiators – ingredients that trigger curing when exposed to UV or LED light.
• Additives and solvents – for shine, adhesion, and smooth application.

The process is simple: a base coat, color, and top coat are applied in layers, with each one hardened under a lamp. The result? A glossy, durable finish that lasts up to three weeks.

The Eco-Sustainability Question

Here’s the catch: gel shellac is not biodegradable. Since it’s made from petrochemical-derived plastics, every manicure adds a little more non-degradable material into the waste stream.

There are a few key concerns:

• Microplastics – Filing and buffing artificial nails creates fine plastic dust, which can contribute to microplastic pollution.
• Removal waste – Gel polish is typically soaked off with acetone, and the cotton pads, foil wraps, and contaminated waste must be disposed of carefully to avoid environmental harm.
• Petrochemical origin – Unlike natural resins, these gels are fully synthetic and derived from fossil fuels.

So while gel manicures reduce the need for frequent reapplications (which does save resources), they don’t qualify as an eco-friendly beauty option.

Is There Real “Shellac” in My Manicure?

Here’s where it gets confusing.

• Traditional shellac is a natural resin secreted by the lac insect. It’s been used for centuries in coatings, food glazing, and even pharmaceuticals. It’s not vegan.
• Salon “Shellac” gel systems are a brand name. They typically don’t contain insect shellac at all.

So, unless the ingredients list specifically says “Shellac (INCI)”, your manicure is probably insect-free—but it’s still plastic-based.

Safety & What Changed in 2025

Beyond sustainability, there are also safety notes:

• UV/LED lamps – Studies show repeated exposure can damage skin cells, though the real-world risk is considered low. Dermatologists recommend applying broad-spectrum SPF or wearing UV-blocking manicure gloves during cures.
• Formula updates – In September 2025, the European Union banned TPO (diphenyl phosphine oxide), a common photoinitiator, because of health concerns. Brands are reformulating with safer alternatives like TPO-L. This isn’t a ban on gel manicures—it’s just about updating ingredients.

Smarter Choices for Conscious Beauty Lovers

I personally stopped using it many months ago but not really for sustainability reasons. I just noticed that my nails got really weak after that and gel-manicure would barely last 1 week on me. I tried different places and professionals, always same result. If you love gel shellac but care about sustainability, here are some ways that I found on different sources to minimize the impact:

• Choose TPO-free, HEMA-conscious formulas. Check ingredient updates from your salon.
• Reduce waste. Ask your salon how they dispose of acetone wraps and nail dust.
• Stretch your wear. Keep nails short, moisturized, and avoid harsh cleaners to extend the life of your manicure.

Gel shellac offers beauty, strength, and long-lasting shine but it’s built on plastic chemistry, not eco-sustainability. For people who prioritize greener choices, it may not be the best option. Still, with careful use, mindful salon practices, and protective steps, you can enjoy the look while reducing its footprint.